Thursday, July 25, 2013

Betta Care: What you need to start keeping bettas

When I first started out with my first betta, Tank, I was pretty clueless. I did some research, but not enough. Workers at the pet store weren't much help. (A general tip I can give is don't rely on your pet store for information, especially at a chain store. Although some of the workers are knowledgeable, many more are not given the proper training to teach others on betta care.) Thankfully I was able to learn lots of information through the #betta tag on tumblr. There are several people in the tag who have owned bettas for a long time who are willing to give out helpful info. I am thankful for them, because they have all taught me so much.

Today I am going to go over a brief list of what you need to set up your betta's aquarium. Please make sure to do lots of research before buying any pet; read more than just this blog post. Be sure that you have enough money and that you can make a commitment to taking care of these fish. Bettas live on the average of 2-4 years when properly taken care of. Will you still be able to take care of your bettas in a year or two down the road? Who will feed your fish if you go on an extended vacation? Do you have the time to do water changes weekly? Think about questions like these.
When first setting up for your betta I suggest you have around $150-$200 set aside. You may not need to use all of this money, but it is better to have more vs less. If you feel like you cannot spend that much money bettas may not be for you. Once you have everything for your tank set up you won't be spending nearly as much. After initial set up main expenses would be food (which will last you a while), replacement cartridges for your filter about once a month, buying water dechlorinator, replacing something if it breaks (such as the heater not working anymore), ect. Check under the read more for my suggested list of items you need, plus some pictures of my two boys.




  1. The aquarium itself. Bettas should never be kept in a bowl or vase. Often times bowl and vases are too small and do not allow enough oxygen exchange at the surface. The shape also does not really allow you to safely heat the water, even with one of those small "betta heaters". Bettas should be kept in an aquarium made for fish that is at least 2 1/2 gallons or more. Some people try to say that bettas will get scared if kept in a larger aquarium, but this is a myth. I originally started out with a 3 gallon aquarium, but have since then upgraded to 10 gallons. While 2 1/2 gallons in the minimum, 5 gallons or more is suggested. This is because it is easier for a 5 gallon or more aquarium to hold a cycle. This means your aquarium has a lower risk of ammonia spikes. If you do not know about aquarium cycling please refer here: http://www.firsttankguide.net/cycle.php
    If you plan on using a divider to keep two bettas I recommend at least 10 gallons or more. 
  2. A heater. Heaters are essential in a betta aquarium. This was a mistake I made at first. I assumed that because my room was generaly warm I could go without a heater, but that isn't true. I suggest a heater like this one. You can adjust how warm you want the water to be, and it automatically shuts off when that temp is reached. I also suggesting getting a thermometer. This will provide a more accurate representation of the temp of your aquarium so that you can adjust the heater if needed. I suggest a thermometer like this one or a digital one. I would not recommend one of those ones that you stick on the outside. Although they may seem easier to read, they are not as accurate. Keep your aquarium between 76-80 degrees F. Above 80 degrees should only be used when treating disease. 
  3. Filter. I use a Tetra Whisper filter that has an adjustable flow, which is great because bettas do not like aquariums with a heavy water current. If you choose to use a hang on back filter be sure to baffle the filter! You can find many easy tutorials on Youtube on how to baffle a hang on back filter with just a water bottle. 
    Filters help clean wastes out of the water. You will still need to water changes with a filter, but it will reduce the number of water changes you need to make. If your filter takes cartridges, make sure to buy extras and change it every 2-4 weeks. 
  4. Plants. Your best bets are either live or silk. Plastic plants are usually a bad idea. Many plastic plants have rough bits that can hurt your poor betta's fins when he swims through them. Silk plants are more expensive, but also safer.
    If you choose to go with live plants, they have some extra benefits. They helps create oxygen in the water and can help with removing some ammonia/nitrates (you still need to do water changes!). If you are new to live plants check out this page. Another popular aquarium plant right now are Marimo balls. I made a post about Marimos here a little while back. Marimos do not exactly provide extra protection, but many people, such as myself like them because they are super easy to care for. 
  5. Decorations. Be sure to get decorations that do not have sharp bits! Some decorations help bring personality to your aquarium, while others bring extra protection. Good pieces to use for extra protection are: Rock caves, PVC piping, terracotta pots, driftwood, ect. ZooMed also makes floating betta logs, but I have heard mixed reviews about them. Some owners warn there are sharp edges, so if you get one be sure to feel the inside.
    I've seen some fish owners just take any old statue or plastic toy they had laying around and put it into their aquarium. While this may look cool, chances are it may not be water safe. Paint can fleck off in the water, the materials may be toxic to the fish, ect. Instead opt to get decorations made specifically for aquariums. Some may be expensive, but it is much safer. If your local pet store doesn't have much of a selection, try looking on Amazon.
  6. Substrate. I see lots of betta owners using marbles or shiny looking stones in their aquariums. I don't suggested this myself because 1.) They are hard to clean. 2.) They may be reflective, which can stress your betta. 3.) I have heard they cannot hold a good bacteria colony as well as other substrates. 
    I suggest either sand or gravel. Try not to use anything that is too bright, as it may stress your betta over time. I use a mix of dark green and blue gravel. Remember to siphon your gravel about once a month to clean up an extra debris.
And that is a basic list of things you need. Other things include aquarium stands (if you don't have a proper place to put your aquarium), hoods, dividers, ect. Like I mentioned before, be sure to do plenty of research before deciding to buy a betta. There are probably going to be some things you won't learn until you own a betta yourself, but it is better to learn all you can beforehand.


Side note: About water changes. Water changes are important! Do not assume because you have a filter and live plants that you do not have to do water changes. During the first month or so you will need to do water changes more often. Do not change all your water at once (unless your bettas have an infection of sorts) because this can break your cycle. A lot products out there for aquariums advertise themselves to 'reduce the need for water changed', but that isn't really necessary. 
It is suggested that you change 10%-30% of your water weekly to bi-weekly. I prefer to change my water weekly. Here are the steps that I use for water changes. Remember, many people do their water changes differently. Feel free to look around places like http://www.bettafish.com/ to see how other betta owners do water changes. 


  1. Scoop some of your current aquarium water and your betta into a cup for holding. A good container would be the cup that your brought your betta home in.. It is safest to remove the betta during cleaning to reduce stress. Bettas can easily become stressed and this can cause several health issues for them if they are repeatedly stressed. 
  2. Water can be taken out in several ways. I use a siphon because it is the quickest and easiest for me. I siphon the water out into a 3 gallon bucket so I make sure not to clean out more than 30%. The water can be dumped down the sink, but I usually use mine to help water the garden. 
  3. Once a month plants/decorations should be taken out to clean and gravel should be siphoned to pick up wastes. Some wastes are good for your cycle, but too much can cause ammonia spikes. 
  4. Clean out a gallon milk jug with hot water. Do not use soap. Rinse out the jug a few times to insure that the jug is clean. Add room temp water + your water conditioner into the jug. Shake it up and let it sit for a few minutes before you dump it in the aquarium. 
  5. Once your aquarium is full again give the water about 10-15 mix/settle. 
  6. Float your betta's container in the water for 10-15 minutes until the water in the cup is the same temp as the water in the aquarium. If there is a sudden change this can shock/stress your betta.
  7. After 10-15 minutes pour the betta + water from the cup into the clean aquarium and you are done. 


This is my first betta, Tank. He is mostly blue with some red and white areas. The store sold him to me as a halfmoon, but I believe he may be mixed with something else. He is much more aggressive than my other betta and will sometimes flare at people he doesn't know very well (like my dad) coming up to his aquarium. He usually likes to stay around the stop, but when he does swim to the bottom it is usually to swim through his rock arch or pvc pipe. 


This is Spike. He was given to me as a graduation present. The ends of his fins look a little tattered because he is currently healing from nipping his fins while I was on a vacation. He nipped them pretty badly, but they have healed very well. Some bettas are known to nip their fins the second they are stressed/bored, but other bettas will nip their fins just because they are heavy. He is very docile compared to Tank. He doesn't even flare at his own reflection. The only time he flares is when the dwarf frog tries to steal his food. He usually swims all over the aquarium and does not just stay at the top like Tank. He doesn't swim through his pvc pipe, often, but he usually swims through the plants. 

If you have any questions about betta ownership, please feel free to ask. If I do not know the answer myself, I can try and direct you to someone who can help you. 


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